Even if you are insensitive to the fashion trend, it is impossible not to feel the hot Hanfu in recent years. Not only as a single item of Hanfu, horse-faced skirts have appeared on various occasions like daily clothing, but it has also become a common sight in historic sites across the country, wearing a full set of Hanfu and taking photos with complete makeup. As in Luoyang, a city with a high concentration of Hanfu, you can walk a few steps to meet well-dressed young people, and some people ridicule: "Luoyang, is it not allowed to enter without wearing Hanfu?"
Hanfu is a general name for the traditional clothing of the Han nationality. Hanfu enthusiasts generally trace the first year of the Hanfu movement back to 2003. This year, an ordinary electricity worker named Wang Letian took to the streets of Zhengzhou, Henan Province, wearing Hanfu, and was interviewed by Singapore's Lianhe Zaobao. The revival of Hanfu has changed from a scattered sharing by enthusiasts on the Internet in the early days to a public event involving public discussion. After more than 20 years, Hanfu can have today's popularity, thanks to the promotion of enthusiasts, the support of clothing researchers, and the industry driven by Hanfu merchants.
The development of Hanfu has a core general driving force, that is, the research and exploration of the original appearance of Hanfu in various historical periods. In response to the popularity of Hanfu, as well as some "unrestrained" dress and design, in this cover, we would like to talk about, in fact, in the development of Hanfu in several important historical periods of the Tang Dynasty, Song Dynasty and Ming Dynasty, the typical characteristics of clothing and dress attention. The production of Hanfu does not need to be completely confined to historical elements. However, at the current stage, to understand the real appearance of Hanfu and understand the language logic of ancient clothing is the premise of our wearing, and it is also the basis of Hanfu designers' re-creation.
Diversity of Tang
After the demise of the short-lived Sui Dynasty and the establishment of the Li Dynasty, Tang dress still followed the style of the late Northern and Sui dynasties. Women's wear is usually a three-piece set: skirt, shirt, and pei. Sun Ji, an expert in ancient costume research at the National Museum, researched that in the Tang Dynasty, these three pieces were generally indispensable for both civilians and nobles. The way to wear it is very simple, tuck the shirt into the waist, and the skirt is tied very high. In addition, the method of wearing pei on the body arose from the Southern and Northern Dynasties, but it became widely popular in the Tang Dynasty. As for men's wear, it is not as varied as women's wear, and the most popular men's wear style, "round neck robe", almost ran through the entire Tang Dynasty.
Before the most glorious age of Tang Dynasty, women in the Tang Dynasty were still slim and tall. In the early Tang Dynasty, women usually wore narrow sleeves on their upper shirts and wore intercolored skirts with high waist and close to the neckline. Their makeup was quiet and subtle. "Bunian Tu" describes the story of Tang Taizong Li Shimin receiving the emissary sent by Songtsen Gampo to welcome Princess Wencheng. Look at the court ladies who carried Li Shimin to sit on the bed. They are slim and dressed simply, which can perceive the aesthetic style of Zhenguan years in the early Tang Dynasty, women in the Tang Dynasty were still slim and tall. In the early Tang Dynasty, women usually wore narrow sleeves on their upper shirts and wore intercolored skirts with high waist and close to the neckline. Their makeup was quiet and subtle. "Bunian Tu" describes the story of Tang Taizong Li Shimin receiving the emissary sent by Songtsen Gampo to welcome Princess Wencheng. Look at the court ladies who carried Li Shimin to sit on the bed. They are slim and dressed simply, which can perceive the aesthetic style of Zhenguan years in the early Tang Dynasty.
In the Wu Zhou period, the amount of skin exposure began to increase, and "topless clothing" became popular. This kind of curve-neck blouse has a very low chest, and some even have a deep V. Some scholars say that when they do research, they will be scared, wondering how to wear this out, and some even simply "turn the collar open", the level of exposure of today's low-cut evening dress.
After Wu Zetian was in power, the aesthetic appreciation of women in the Tang Dynasty became extremely open and confident, which was a very remarkable dress phenomenon in the Tang Dynasty and even in ancient Chinese history, which can often be seen from the Tang terra-cotta warriors, murals and other cultural relics unearthed in this period. And if the lens is pulled closer to pay attention to smaller details, you can also find that the upper shirt tucked into the skirt waist in the past is now exposed to the outside, the silk has become wide, and the way of wearing is similar to today, like when we wear low-cut evening dresses today, we will also use an extra silk scarf or scarf around the shoulder.
Another popular fashion in the Tang Dynasty was "women wearing men's clothes". There is a popular story about Princess Taiping, the daughter of Empress Wu Zetian, from the New Book of Tang, which says that Emperor Gaozong and Queen Wu once held a banquet, and Princess Taiping dressed in men's clothes came out to dance for her parents. The book records that Princess Taiping's dress is "purple robe jade belt, folded on the towel." There is also the famous Picture of Lady of the Guo State on a Spring excursion, which records an outing of Lady of the Guo State during the reign of Xuanzong. Most scholars believe that the woman wearing men's clothes on the right of the painting is Lady of the Guo State. It can be said that in addition to less seen in the late Tang Dynasty, women's men have been very popular since the early Tang Dynasty.
The development of costume culture to the Tang Dynasty ushered in a peak of costumes. The representative figure of dressed desire should be Yang Yuhuan. Emperor Xuanzong assigned as many as 700 dressers to style his beloved concubines and their attendants, responsible for completing the craft, including weaving and embroidery. A detail was recorded in the book "The History of the Tang Dynasty", which said that after the "An Shi Rebellion", an old woman picked up a silk thigh-high boot of your concubine at the post where Yang Yuhuan was executed. The old woman was surprised to find that the price standard of 100 copies per appreciation could not stop people's interest in it. She made a happy little fortune out of it.
The Tang Dynasty clothing is rich and complex, the fashion changes quickly, sometimes three or five years there is a new fashion, especially the bun, makeup these low-cost, easy to change the parts. A classic Tang Dynasty look, in addition to eyebrows and lips, there is also a flower between the forehead, rouge, and dimple. Throughout the Tang Dynasty, makeup and clothing kept pace, but also gradually from conservative to gorgeous (Wu Zhou period), from gorgeous further changed to ostentatious luxury fashion (late Tang period). But each period has let us modern eyes bright fashion, it can be said that in the fashion, the Tang women will never let you down.
The change of costume is not only related to the fabric and weaving process, but also related to people's perception of the social atmosphere. Tang Dynasty nearly 300 years, not only the rapid economic and cultural development, the expansion of the territory is also spectacular, the international metropolis of Chang 'an is a million people. In such an inclusive multi-ethnic country, the Tang people felt relaxed and free, which created such diverse and changeable clothing fashion.
Simplicity of Song Dynasty
If you want to know the real Song Dynasty costumes, you may want to visit the "Ancient Chinese Costume Culture Exhibition" at the National Museum of China. Among them, the restored portrait of a man's dress in the Song Dynasty is dressed in a purple yarn long-sleeved gown up to the ankle, with both hands in front of the chest to show respect, exposing the wide sleeve edge of the long back lined with light blue, showing the dark flower pattern under the light. Under the big sleeves, the man is wearing a red 鞓 gold litchi pattern square leather belt, his feet are wearing black shoes, and his head is wearing a curtain hat beside him. The men of Yuan Dynasty in their tan beaded satin braid robes form a striking contrast.
The restoration of the costume was based on cultural relics unearthed from the tomb of Zhao Bowoong in Southern Song Dynasty, Huangyan, Zhejiang Province. Although a member of the imperial family, Zhao Bowoon-the grandson of Zhao Kuangyin, the first emperor of the Northern Song Dynasty, there were very few valuables in his tomb. Apart from his clothes, there were only a piece of dragon jade, a piece of crystal, and some agarwood. Zhou Yang, deputy director of the China Silk Museum, was in charge of the emergency protection of the tomb's silk costumes. She was very impressed by the peaceful attitude of the Song Dynasty people. "Only in the Song Dynasty did they find that they were buried with only their beloved objects, without any gold and silver utensils."
In the archaeological work, Zhou Yang was most impressed by a bright cotton gown made by Zhao Bo with a lotus pattern. "Holding it in his hand, he found it was so light, it was a very thin and transparent gauze." After the clothes were cleaned, it showed a beautiful lotus pattern on both sides of the wide sleeves and the body, looking very much like the Song Dynasty literati style. "I think Zhao Bo must be a very elegant man." Zhou Yang said, "Zhao Bo must have felt very wide and comfortable wearing the gauze gown. His beloved jade was worn on his waist, faintly visible in the elegant tulle folds. It is conceivable that he must have a casual and elegant look."
A breakthrough in the shape of men's wear in the Song Dynasty is the emergence of the back with a slit on the side of the collar, in contrast, the application of the back in the Song Dynasty women's dress is more brilliant. In the late Northern Song Dynasty, this straight collar on the front, slim narrow sleeves, long clothes and knees, armpit long slit clothing became popular in the royal life of the concubine, and it is similar to the shorter body length of the shirt, the same straight collar on the front style, narrow and sharp cut gradually replaced the early Northern Song Dynasty inherited the Tang style of wide sleeves, forming a new dress fashion for women in the Song Dynasty. The shape of this style of dress is vividly expressed in the silk painting "Yaotai Bule Tu", in which the three aristocratic women all wear above-knee backs, looking very tall and slender.
Shen Congwen put forward the theory of "changing ancient" when discussing the Song Dynasty clothing. He called the Song Dynasty women's dress "fashion", and "the change of dress often precedes the trend". Many styles in the Song Dynasty women's dress look particularly modern. For example, a pair of wide-leg pants unearthed from the tomb of Chayuanshan Song Dynasty in Fuzhou is made of the most representative thin flower luo in the Song Dynasty. It has a very important invisible avant-garde design - the two pants are not closed, the two outer sides are completely open from the waist down to the foot mouth, and a silk underpants are worn inside.
Zhang Ling, a professor at the School of Drama and Film at the Communication University of China, copied this pair of pants with two outer sides completely slashed in class, "Students can't believe that the Southern Song Dynasty is so open." But this openness is not unique. In the process of the evolution of the back and the shirt in the Northern Song Dynasty, they also added two straps to tie the front in the middle, but in the Southern Song Dynasty, they not only had to open their breasts, but also wore them directly as underwear, and the wrinkles of the skirt in the lower body became much less, and as a whole, they would show a very light feeling. I think this is related to the increasingly rich life scenes of women in the Southern Song Dynasty and the gradual improvement of their social status.
In addition to light and simple, the elegant color of Song Dynasty clothing is also an important feature. But in the absence of any physical color to be retained, how to restore the true Song Dynasty dress color? An important basis is to describe a large number of clothing in the Song Ci open imagination space, "kneading blue shirt apricot yellow skirt", "lotus silk shirt sleeve tulips", after experiencing the colorful full Tang Dynasty, the Song Dynasty appeared a lot of saturation reduced middle color. These different shades of color collocation, the formation of the Song Dynasty clothing gentle and elegant overall feeling.
The gorgeous of the Ming Dynasty
For Hanfu researchers, Ming Dynasty is a dynasty with the most abundant materials, the most intuitive perception and the most convenient restoration. This is firstly due to the fact that the clothing objects handed down in the Ming Dynasty have been preserved, which is more complete in shape and clearer in color and pattern than the clothing relics unearthed in archaeology.
Among them, the largest batch came from the costumes left by the family of Kong Yan Shenggong in Shandong Province. Yan Shenggong was the title of Confucius' eldest son, which began in Song Dynasty, went through Yuan, Ming, Qing and Republic of China until 1935, when the national government changed the title of Yan Shenggong Kong Decheng as the most holy teacher and sacrificial official. The old collection of clothing in Kong Fu relates to the clothing materials of Ming Dynasty, Qing Dynasty and Republic of China. Due to the status of the Yan Shenggong family, the preserved clothing of the Ming Dynasty was not destroyed due to political events such as the "change of clothes". When the cultural relics Management Committee of Qufu City took over the cultural relics of Kong Fu, in the attic of the back hall of Kong Fu, it was found that many camphor wood boxes were stored with this batch of clothes, of which there were more than 100 pieces of clothing in the Ming Dynasty.
What was the typical costume of a woman in the Ming Dynasty? In addition to some ceremonial occasions, women need to wear a round neck gown, big shirt such as the nature of the dress of the garment, the most commonly worn clothing style of women in the Ming Dynasty is actually very clear, that is, wearing a jacket, wearing a skirt under the "two pieces of clothing."
The shape of the skirt is the "horse face skirt" that is popular all over the country this year, and "horse face skirt" is the name of its image. "Horse face" originally refers to a pier protruding from the city wall, and its facade is shaped like a horse face. Kongfu's old collection of a green makeup flower yarn python skirt is a very important horse skirt in this collection. The pattern above it is a five-clawed python dragon pattern, a very high level, which can be seen from the emperor's gift. The process is also the combination of makeup flower and weaving gold, showing luxury. The green color is similar to the color of the horse-faced dress worn by the women in the "Mingxianzong Yuanxiao Entertainment Picture", indicating that it was a popular color at that time. It continues to be copied by today's Hanfu businesses, especially the python dragon pattern above fits the zodiac of the Year of the Dragon, and the replica version has become the "explosion" worn before the Spring Festival this year.
The jacket worn on the horse skirt has a very prominent feature in the Ming Dynasty, that is, in the middle of the Ming Dynasty, in addition to the traditional round collar and cross-collar, the shape of the vertical collar appeared, and the vertical collar front and vertical collar front jacket became a common female jacket style. The emergence of the vertical collar also provided a stage for a decorative style, that is, the use of buttons. During the frequent trade between the Ming Dynasty and Central and Western Asia, exotic gems became the material for making buttons. If it is a shirt with a vertical collar on the front, the gold and silver jewel buttons above can be affixed with up to seven, and noble women will use this to highlight their financial resources.
Why did the vertical collar appear? One explanation is that the middle of the Ming Dynasty was a little ice Age, and rising collars helped keep out the cold. Another explanation is that the Neo-Confucianism of the Ming Dynasty had strict requirements for women to maintain chastity, especially in the middle and late Ming Dynasty, and the taboo concept of the human body was strengthened to the extreme.
Compared with the matching of women's jacket and horse skirt, if you choose a set of representative Ming Dynasty men's common dress, it is the Taoist robe. As its name suggests, the Taoist robe was originally the clothing of Taoism. A typical Ming Dynasty Taoist robe is straight up and down, with a front collar, and the collar is often inlaid with white or plain collar. It has a "dark pendulum" to cover the slits on both sides of the body to avoid exposing the clothes worn inside. When wearing Taoist robes, the waist can be matched with silk sash, thin cloth belt or large belt. In the old collection of Kongfu, there is a Taoist robe of blue dark floral yarn. It is dyed with indigo, the picture can not be seen, in fact, there are dark lines on the yarn, weaving the crane with ganoderma lucidum, longevity peach, pomegranate and four ruyi patterns. It looks like you can imagine what a Ming Dynasty scholar looked like.
In the encyclopedic book "Tiangong Kaiwu" written by Song Yingxing at the end of the Ming Dynasty, there are a total of 28 kinds of colors that vegetable dyes and animal dyes can be dyed, of which there is not only an example of a variety of colors dyed by a dye, but also an example of a color dyed by a variety of formulas, which shows the superb dyeing technology at that time, resulting in the brilliant colors of Ming clothing. In these many colors, choose a color that can best represent the overall impression of Ming Dynasty clothing, it must be red. "Tiangong Kai Wu" mentioned six kinds of red: big red, lotus red, peach red, silver red, water red and wood red. Among them, the red flower dyed the most beautiful red. The big red dark flower yarn embroidered cloud crane square fill round collar robe, its big red color is from the safflower dye, after time, the color is still bright abnormal.
Jiang Yuqiu, author of "A Study on the Shape and Form of Clothing in the Ming Dynasty" and professor of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, summed up the characteristics of "integrated" clothing in the Ming Dynasty. "This kind of" integrated "style is the result of" attaching equal importance to Tao and instruments." On the one hand, there was a kind of top-level design in the clothing system of the Ming Dynasty. Zhu Yuanzhang, Emperor Taizu of the Ming Dynasty, adopted Zhou and Han from the top and Tang and Song from the bottom at the beginning of the founding of the people's Kingdom, formed the clothing system of the Ming Dynasty, and established a strict hierarchical system of clothing with "the upper and lower levels are equal, and the nobility and the base are different". On the other hand, the textile skills of the Ming Dynasty have been greatly improved on the accumulation of the previous generation. The continuous change of the system and the rapid change of technology together achieved the unique characteristics of the Ming Dynasty clothing."
